Saturday - Week X

We woke up to exquisite sunshine which was illuminating this charming town now completely coverd in snow. It was truly amazing to look out the main window in the hotel parlor and feel like we were actually in a town in Germany not Ireland.

We woke up to a beautifully sunny day but it wasn't cold at all and I went outside to take some pictures of the hotel and it's surroundings wearing only a sweater. After our delicious breakfast which included freshly made crepes with a homemade apple sauce filling, yum, yum, we had the front desk call the Ring of Kerry tour company to see if we would be doing the day tour despite the previous evenings snow fall. Sadly the tour was not to be as the roads were too hazardous but to accommodate the six of us who were visiting this area specifically to see the Ring of Kerry the tour company did an abbreviated version which lasted only 3 hours versus 5 and half. Joe, our tour guide/bus driver first took us to the Ross Castle which was build in the 15th Century and sits happily on the largest of three lakes in this region. We spent only about 15 minutes walking around and taking pictures. Our small group was comprised of mom, me, a father and daughter from Salt Lake City, Utah and two young German girls. It was a very pleasant group.

We were then off to the Torc Waterfall which is only a five minute walk through a wooded area and by a beautiful babbling brook or maybe a very small river depending on how you look at it. We took some great pictures there and with the snow fall it was simply majestic. There was a long staircase leading up to a path that apparently takes you around another part of this National Park and down to the Muckross House where we were to visit a bit later. Interestingly Muckross means, in Irish, Pigs Peninsula (muck = wild pig or boar and ross =peninsula.) Apparently there were lots of wild boar that inhabited the peninsula at one point. We didn't go any further on to the peninsula than where you stop to see the waterfall. There is a very rich history in this part of the country, of course I think you can say that about most any place you step on this island.

Muckross is a tutor style manor built in 1843 and has been exceptionally preserved. The last time a Queen of England set foot in Ireland was in 1861 when Queen Victoria came and stayed at Muckross House. We were told today that Queen Elizabeth is planning a trip to Ireland in the New Year. That should be interesting to say the least since there is still a lot of animosity toward the British in this country.

We didn't take the inside tour of the manor rather just walked around the extensive grounds for an hour or so. I only got one picture of the house itself but if you look closely at the picture of the front of the house you'll see a man walking by who was wearing a funny cap.

Everywhere you went was more breathtaking than the last. The trees all covered in snow were so picturesque and the lake with the snow caped mountains was picture perfect. There were lots of winding paths with babbling brooks, wild vegetation and small winding paths leading to all kinds of wonderful inlets. I trekked through the snow happily and even a little slip down a muddy trail didn't stop me or dampen my spirits. The sun shone so brightly and the company was engaging so how could one not enjoy themselves. The father and daughter from Utah were took this trip to Ireland to celebrate the daughter, Jessica's graduation from college. It was so sweet to see her with her dad and they clearing were enjoying themselves even if they didn't get to see all they had wanted to. The German girls were very sweet and I think felt right at home with all this snow.

We came across this small area of odd shaped, snow covered mounds on the ground. As we approached it was very clear these were once fabulous palm trees that, with the inches of snow, were weighted down so much they could not longer stand. Jessica and I were hoping that with a spring thaw they would just pop back to life although her father, being less optimistic about the whole thing, figured no they were gonners and I suppose would end up as mulch for future plantings. Sadly there was another such heap not far off.

Jessica made me laugh when she wanted to leap onto some large, flat stones with the first being about 2 feet from the shoreline and she hesitated knowing if she fell she'd be in the cold water and her dad being very much not a mom said oh, just try it. So she did and he was poised to take a picture but as I watched on I gasped because as she placed her feet on the second stone it tipped a bit and she almost fell in. Now her father said is that as far as you're going to go so she stepped on the next and did eventually make it out to the last one and he got a great picture of her. But Jessica and I both found it amusing that if it were her mom she truly would have done everything possible to discourage her doing it unlike the dad who thought it would make a great picture if she could make it.

I met up with mom who had taken a different route through the garden and we shared a nice lentil and veggie dish for lunch before we got back in our tour van and headed back into town. It may not have been the tour we were looking forward to but it was still beautiful and we have a DVD that gives you the complete tour of the ring so it's all good.

Mom and I walked around the open air market in the Center of Town and bought some Irish cheese from one of the market vendors, Mannings Emporium, Ballylickey to have for a snack later at the hotel. We then walked in and out of all the little shops. We even stopped off to warm up a bit and rest our legs at Catherine's Country Cafe where they serve delicious treats like a wheat scone with Jam (mom's choice) and a sugar donut (my choice.) I even tried a Irish sparkling apple soda which was a cross between ginger ale and apple juice.

We eventually made a loop around the town and came back to the open air market where we had German sausages that have won the best in Ireland prize. We ate as we walked toward St. Mary's Cathedral which was built in 1840. The stone work is impressive and mass was beautiful with lots of lovely singing. Father Gerard O'Leary wrote a thoughtful message to his parishioners in the weekly bulletin and essentially it says that during this stressful holiday time we need to take extra care to be kind to one another and when you are stuck in line somewhere just enjoy talking to the people near you and make the best of it. He said "Make a conscious decision to be at peace with yourself and to relax in spite of the business around you." I think it's a nice sentiment although I don't find that people are rushing so much. Yes, the stores were crowded as were the streets and restaurants but no one seemed all that harried here. It could just be that I'm used to the pacing of a New York City holiday season which is frenetic and maddening at times so the Christmas season here seems so peaceful and relaxing.

We walked for a bit after mass before jumping in a cab and returning to our cozy hotel. We spent a bit of time in the pool/sauna/steam room and then the rest of the evening in the parlor. We even ate the cheese we bought in the market there .